Every summer for nine days the normally quiet town of Pamplona is bursting at the seams with teaming, excited crowds from every nation. The buzz running through is like a physical presence, you can literally see, hear and feel the adrenalin surging through day and night, when young and old converge on the town to run with the bulls or to watch the brave and the crazy hurl themselves through the streets midst the horns and hooves of the racing bulls.
While part of me understands the thrill seeking madness, my nagging conscience keeps asking why and how they allow such a cruel and dangerous public festival at all, let alone attract such huge international crowds and publicity. Saying that, I do find myself guiltily watching the news clips every year to see who has been gored or trampled. As an ex-pat living in Spain, I was initially shocked at the stomach churning footage shown on Spanish television; in the UK censoring is so much stricter. But ten years down the line, I find myself glued to the news, watching re-run after re-run of confused bulls trampling and goring anything in their way and vivid close-ups of limp bleeding bodies.
Although this massive television coverage implies non-stop action, the run through the streets is only 800 metres and lasts just minutes. It takes place early in the morning before the stifling summer heat of the day, with crowds starting to gather at first light and the running starting at 8am. The race ends in the bull ring, with locals and tourists darting daringly around the arena with the young bulls, adrenalin still blazing through their bodies. Older, stronger and more savvy bulls are saved for combat with the matador later in the day.
The bullfights take place every evening during this festival of San Fermin. Tickets are hard to come by, beware of street sellers with fake tickets. Pamplona has the second largest bullfighting ring in Spain, with capacity for 20,000, filled to overflowing during the festivities.
With the bullfighting over, the surviving bulls are tucked away to fight another day, the crowds continue to surge around; bars, squares and streets are full day and night; spontaneous friendships erupting all around, as the bonding buzzing energy flows through the town.
If you plan to join the thrills and spills of running with the bulls in Pamplona, book ahead. Accommodation can be hard to find hotels are brimming, locals move in with parents and grandparents to rent out every bed and sofa in their own homes, and backpackers crash out in the parks. Be very careful with bags and wallets, keep everything as close to you as possible, bags hanging in front and ideally flat 'bum bags' for passport and money worn under your clothes.
For international travel to Pamplona, the nearest airport is Vitoria (VIT) an hour drive away. Other Spain airports, Madrid and Barcelona have internal flights directly to the smaller airport in Pamplona. Car hire in Spain is available at all airports, public transport can get very busy during the time of the festival and booking ahead is essential.
For quick and easy booking of cheap and reliable car hire in Spain or information on Spain airports, please visit: http://www.spainairportcarhire.com/
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